Rondu

the Kavango River

Rondu is a small northern town, and makes an alternative stop for John and i on our return to Tsumeb. It sits on the Kavango river and makes a good chill-out spot.

Without Josef, it’s Yours Truly who is behind the wheel, and damn fine i do too despite the lack of recent driving practise – it has been some eight years now since i last sat behind a steering wheel. Like riding a bicycle it is clear that one never forgets. Whilst John has a driving license with him his glasses are broken. I have a UK driving license which i failed to pack for my African Adventures - DRATS!

We splurge at the Ngandu Safari Lodge. Lonely Planet describe it as a place to suit all budgets but we have to pay some N$535 for a basic, but comfortable double. We push the boat out even further by ordering a T-bone steak with fries and dessert of vanilla ice-cream and chocolate sauce. After three weeks on the road this is the first time i eat at a “real” restaurant.

At such places i endeavour to load up on the free breakfast buffet and today is no exception. John gets my liver and bacon and i pretty much polish everything else off.

From Rondu it is some 511km back to Tsumeb and suddenly it feels like coming home. The roads are a pleasure to drive with virtually no traffic. Aub notes it seems that only whites own private cars.

It’s a sad farewell to the Kavango district, but a trip up here comes with my highest recommendation. The scenery is beautiful and offers a glimpse into traditional African village life.

Kavango District

traditional life in Kavango

Heading up out of Tsumeb we drive some 550kms up to Popa Falls close to the borders with Angola and Botswana.

The further north one travels in Namibia, the greener the country becomes with the larger rainfalls. As we enter the Kavango region i really get a sense of Africa, away from the feel of colonialisation. Gone are the security fences surrounding opulent houses and farms, small thatched wooden huts are enclosed by basic stick fences. Cattle and a few goats are herded and a few maize fields are growing along the side of the road.

The road is sealed and straight, and Josef opens up our rented Hyundai like Michael Schumacher.

We arrive at sunset into Popa Falls, where accommodation prices seem to have sky-rocketed since the Lonely Planet was last updated. After shopping around the Pupa Falls Lodge run by the Namibian Wildlife Resorts gets our vote. Despite the somewhat run-down chalet at N$250 per person plus breakfast, it’s some N$100 cheaper than its surrounding competitors.

Set next to the Oriwanga river it is a picturesque stopping point before we hit the Caprivi strip. We will endeavour to get up at dawn to look for hippo and we have to hit the road early anyway to see if we can bring in the car to Zambia.

Be warned however! The Falls are actually small rapids. Clearly trying to tempt passers by.