Dar Es Salaam

from the waterfront

Apart from Cape Town, i generally don’t like African cities, and normally i stock up on supplies, find a couple of choice restaurants and skedaddle.

Not in the same league as Cape Town, nonetheless Dar Es Salaam is really quite good. It has a compact city centre, some friendly and very helpful locals and a few attractions to offer a passing travellist. It also boasts a great melting pot kinda feel. Africans, Arabs and Indians collide their cultural and religious backgrounds in good harmony, a mix of architectural styles from colonial to post-modern, and of course some interesting cuisine options.

Landmarks Around Dar Es Salaam





The National Museum is a must see, with some truly quality exhibitions, including Tanzania’s fight for independence and freedom, natural history, ethnography and the skulls from the cradle of civilization dating back some 1.75 million years ago from Olduvai Gorge in the volcanic north of Tanzania. Ii is open daily from 9.30am – 6pm.


African sculpture in wood

skull dating back 1.75 million years ago - the cradle of civilization

A walk along the bustling waterfront offers stall dining experiences as well as to the fish market. Even for a non-seafood eater it is an interesting sight with swathes of sardines, tuna, mackerel, barracuda, octopus, squid, prawns and even sailfish. Wearing my sandals was not a sensible choice however.

around the fish market

My favourite restaurant find has to be the Red Onion, located at the Haidery Plaza opposite the YWCA. This rooftop restaurant probably isn’t the cheapest Indian restaurant in town, but the chicken tandoori was exquisite. Chef's Pride on Chagga Street is a longstanding backpackers' favourite with a huge menu. Whilst several of the dishes appear to be unavailable, what is available is good.

herbal medicines for sale on the street

Staying in the YWCA offers the cheapest central option, but unfortunately a somewhat noisy one too. At TSh10000 per person in a double or triple for it’ll do perfect. It is best to book ahead.

Mbeya to Dar Es Salaam

The train for Dar Es Salaam was due on Wednesday 1pm, although delays are quite common with the train’s starting point in Zambia. By 4pm the Station Master comes up to the notice board and writes that the train is now expected at 4am. Kristin from Birmingham England befriends him and gets his number before suggesting we head back to the Holiday Hotel and get updates later. The Station Master texts her about 8pm informing that the ETA is now 7pm and we agree to share a taxi back to Mbeya station at 6am. At least we are in more comfortable surroundings.

Arriving in to Mbeya station for my third time, we are now reliably informed the train will be in at 10.20am. The smell of 300 sweaty bodies is almost over-powering inside. Sure enough by 10.30 the train pulls into the station - some 19 and a half hours behind schedule.


Second class is more than adequate although i do note that all the international travellers have opted for first class. Less than three hours into the journey and the engine breaks down. Another engine is called for, but takes some three hours to arrive. It at least provides an opportunity to stretch the legs and take The Beast out.

We eventually hit the rails again, but Dar Es Salaam seems a long way away. There is a restaurant car with some reasonably priced although rather bland food is served up.

He scenery is fairly dramatic. First there are plains with a mountain backdrop, before passing through Selous Game Reserve where I spot antelope and warthog along the track. A couple of hours before our arrival into Dar the parched landscape becomes lush and green.

a happy vendor

We eventually arrive into Dar at 1.30pm some 23 hours behind schedule. If you are in hurry or need to make a connection this journey is not for you and you are better off taking the 12 hour bus. However, despite the delays, for me this journey is awesome.