A Leap Into The Dark

Make Your Dreams Come True

2011-08-23T14:54:00.008+01:00

A few months after the completion of my African Adventures, i have relocated back to Asia.

New Yorker Grant recently shared this wonderful Mark Twain quote with me. It might not be susinct but it does remind us to “Go For It”. We all have choices; we all have control in our lives; we all have opportunities. Even if we are married with three kids!

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."

The new blog is up and running but you will have to beg me for access.

Ketchup with Darrin

2011-07-04T22:36:00.006+01:00

Ketchup with Darrin in Tottenham Court Road

It's great if somewhat strange catching up with Darrin in London. Darrin is recuperating from his unwitting electrocution in Dar Es-Salaam. Luckily he is in one piece and through the help of his acupuncturist, he is well on his way to a full recovery. Like myself he finds UK life somewhat boring and tedious, and fortunately he has managed a couple of side trips to France and Spain between consultations. He also faces some serious difficulties with his insurance company which is likely to end up in court.

Darrin's Land-rover is likely to be rotting fast in Tanzania and not surprisingly he is impatient for an emotional reunion.

A Journey’s Highlights

2011-06-04T11:52:00.007+01:00

Sossusvlei, Namibia

This surreal desert landscape is sublime and is likely to be one of my first i revisit. Bring a tent and stay for a week!

Cape Peninsula, South Africa

The end of the African continent boasts beautiful National Parklands boasting huge biodiversity if flora second to none.

Gansbaii, South Africa

The place to share the ocean with Great White sharks. To view these adept killers is an amazing experience

Ilha de Mocambique, Mozambique

A genuine working town and a sublime historical feast showing Portuguese colonial architecture at its finest.

Ibo Island, Mozambique

A surreal island – just like a film set!

Cape Maclear, Malawi

A piece of paradise on Lake Malawi.

Vwaza, Malawi

Little visited and cheap as chips, watch elephants come to bathe at sunset.

Ngorogoro Crater, Tanzania

If you are going to do any one safari in Africa, it’s hard to beat the diversity found here.

Parc National des Volcan

Viewing the mountain gorillas in their natural habitat was the most exhilarating moment of the trip. Damn the expense and see for yourself.

Harar, Ethiopia

Like no place on Earth. Don’t miss the old market and the Hyena men.

Shendi, Sudan

Imagine having over 100 pyramids all to yourself.

Petra, Jordan

Not surprisingly one of the modern Wonders of the World. Spend a few days and check out the myriad paths.

Friends From The Road - Where Are They Now?

2011-06-03T22:08:00.002+01:00

As i often remind Ying, it's the people in the world not the places. I enjoyed the company of many, but the following are people i have stayed in contact with throughout the trip.

Darrin (Windhoek, Namibia)

Darrin is currently in London recuperating from his shocking experience in Dar-Es Salaam. He hopes to return to Tanzania to collect his Landy and continue up East Africa

Josef (Windhoek, Namibia)

After returning to Germany to sell his apartment, he returned to Africa again. Unfortunately he cpuld not find anyone to share fuel costs on the mobile home but we spent a few days together in Addis. Great to catch up with him again and he is happy to take me round the Stans in his monster truck at some point.

Jandre (Port St John’s, South Africa)

Jandre works with his father in a multi-million pound banking business. He takes time off to continue to surf around the Wild Coast

Steve (Port St John’s, South Africa)

With no email account, contact has been difficult. Nonetheless i continue to send him marijuana seeds which he farms in the Transkei as well as breeding his Siamese fighting fish and running his wormery,

Grant (Port St John's, South Africa)

Grant is now working for Hostel World on Cable TV. We missed each other by 2 weeks in Tanzania and about two days in Petra.

Flipper (Port St John’s, South Africa)

Flipper returned back to Sweden, before embarking on a brief sojourn to The Ganj and Dharamsala. Now back in Sweden, she is applying for medical school..

James and Pippa (Ibo Island, Mozambique)

James has finally found work on a boat in Saudi Arabia. Pip’s has decided to leave her ocumentary making career to become an international teaching career

Stef (Ibo Island, Mozambique)

I met Steff again in Addis – great to cztch up with him again as he slowly meanders his way back to Holland

Lij Fire (Nkarta Bay, Malawi)

Lij Fire was arrested for procession but is currently out of prison

P. (Bunyoni Island, Uganda)

After six months on the road, P. is now back in the United States living with his sister in Seattle as he looks for a return into the workforce

Loco Lobo (Bunyoni Island, Uganda)

After a great few days in Haifa, Loco Lobo is planning trips to Berlin, Poland and back to tribal areas in Southern Ethiopia.

Jimmy and Jenny (Fort Portal, Uganda)

Currently helping out the wildlife population in Bangladesh with their dog Princess.

Derbo (Addis Ababa, Ethiopia)

Derbo has just a few months left to go before he graduates from his college. Unfortunately his mother is very sick and in a Lalibela hospital

Lindsey (Gonder and Lalibela)

Spiritual daughter is now back in London where she has just handed in her notice at work as she looks for an international posting.

Milan (Abri, Sudan)

Milan returned back to the Cezh Republic in early March. Back on the farm, i may try and do a side trip whilst in Europe to stay on his farm

Casper (Luxor, Egypt)

Casper is back in the States where he continues his massage business and planning to spend the summer in Alaska using his wilderness survival skills I have put him in contact with Seth as he is interested in continuing his survival skills with the San in Namibia/South Africa

Elizabeth (Luxor, Egypt)

A sad farewell in Jerusalem. Her sabbatical is now at an end and she returns to her community college in Michigan.

Fast Facts

2011-06-02T01:00:00.001+01:00

Countries visited: Officially 14 (15 if Palestine is included as a separate entity)

Miles Covered: Approximately 15,000

Border Crossings: 16 (17 if included “Security Barrier” in Israel)

48GB memory cards of photos

3 toothbrushes

7 tubes of toothpaste

14 razor blades

6 cans of deodorant

3 baseball caps

2 thefts – mobile phone and head-torch in Pemba, Tanzania and electronic mosquito repellent in Ezulwini Valley, Swaziland

2 bouts of colds/flu – Malawi and Egypt

Other sicknesses/illnesses – absolutely nothing

1 mass peeling session – Mozambique

A Journey's End

2011-05-18T21:25:00.000+01:00

It’s been a wild and awesome journey, but i find myself at the journey’s end.

As you read this i am enjoying some R and R with Ma and Pa in north France who feared i would only return in a body-bag.

I’ll add a few more postings on my return in June, for your information, but you’ve pretty much had your lot.

A big thank you must go to:

Ying – for so much cyber-sharing for much of the trip

Bubba – for fantastic travel ideas throughout Africa

A massive variety of travel companions on the road

Guardian Angel for everything and to whom this blog is completely dedicated to

I know several readers have followed my entire journey. We have covered 14 countries (15 if you count Palestine as a separate entity – and i do) in some 13months. I welcome your feedback on what you have liked/enjoyed as well as constructive criticism in the comments below.

This blog site will shortly be closing down as i need to move to a site with a much greater degree of anonymity. If you are interested in following further scribbling and photographs you will have to write to me in person to subscribe to my next blog site. – at the discretion of the author.

Ciao Israel

2011-05-17T21:41:00.001+01:00

One gets the feeling that the vast majority of the population of Israel want peace, yet 53 years after independence; it remains a war-zone. Rockets fly in from Gaza, bags are searched when entering any building, be it a bus station or a supermarket, and 18 year old kids in and out of uniforms walk around with AK47s.

It affects every aspect of every life in Israel whether Arab or Jewish, and is embedded in the national psyche. It’s easy to make simplistic generalizations about the situation in Israel, but in reality, it is far more complex. I have seen firsthand internal hostility between both Arabs and Jews.

I am very much indebted to family and friends here in Israel who have welcomed and spoilt me at every opportunity. I have eaten loads and will return to Europe weighing considerably more than when i started this journey. I certainly shan’t wait another 27 years to return. Without their generosity i would not have been able to stay as long as i have – Israel is really expensive.

Rosh Hanikra

2011-05-16T22:29:00.010+01:00

Rosh Hanikra is the most northerly point along the Mediterranean coast bordering Lebanon and is billed by the Israeli Tourist Board as “a love story between the Sea and the Mountain”. It has also been declared as a nature reserve with annual turtle nestings.

the Elephant's Foot

The site claims to have the steepest cable car ride in the World and allows the travellist to visit The Grotto, the cliffs, the old railway tunnel and watch an infomercial.

the British built railway line blown up in 1948 by Zionists

electric colours in the Grottos

the border-post with Lebanon - no entry for many a year

It’s a pretty cool trip.

the world's steepest cable car journey

Akko (Acre)

2011-05-15T22:09:00.005+01:00

the beautiful Old City of Akko - deservedly a World Heritage Site

Akko (Acre) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as a classic example of a Mediterranean fortress town. The Old Town is small, but perfectly formed, north of Haifa on the coast. It is believed to be one of the oldest continually lived in settlements in Israel, dating back to 16BC. 95% of the old city is Arab.

Khan al-Umdan in the Old City

The outer walls were constructed in 1799 by Ahmed Pasha al Jazzar following Napolean’s thwarted attempt to take the city.

a 19th century mortar on the old battlements

The Old Souq has been cleaned up and there are several sites spread out over town, including Turkish baths, plenty of historical mosques and the Templar tunnels which have unfortunately flooded during my visit.

For eating, a visit to Humus Said is a must – some of the best ubiquitous beige stuff found in Israel is served up continuously. It’s worth the wait.

The place is crowded with Israeli tourists on Saturdays.

The new city lacks the old charm but is an important pilgrimage site for Baha’is.

Haifa

2011-05-14T22:03:00.004+01:00

Haifa is Israel’s third city on the Mediterranean coastline on Mount Carmel with a population with a population of some 300,000 people. In comparison to Jerusalem and Tel Aviv it is somewhat provincial but is nonetheless an interesting city, with a few sites (not least the Baha’i Gardens), museums and galleries.

over the city

The city is multi-tiered with the port and the trendy German Colony at the bottom of Mount Carmel, the Arab community and commercial district in Wadi Nisnas and the Carmel Centre at the upper side of the mountain where the Well To Do have built quality expensive apartments.

clouds over the city

tomatoes grown locally and sold in the daily market

The Carmelit is Israel’s only Metro system which travels through all these areas for about NIS5 per journey.

Zev has an apartment in the German Colony- the trendiest place in town

We take our breakfast at the City Center Plaza at the bottom of Ben Gurion Avenue and indeed all the restaurants in the German Colony are popular.

In December Christmukkah is celebrated incorporating Eid, Christmas and Hannukah, reflecting Haifa’s multi-cultural community.

sunset over Haifa

Further up Mount Carmel lies several Druze villages which are very popular with Israelis on Saturdays.

There is also Mount Carmel monastery established in the 19^th century which offers excellent views from the top of the roof and some pleasant gardens.

An Eye and a Lens - Shrine of the Bab and the Baha’i Gardens

2011-05-13T20:18:00.005+01:00

Lonely Planet – Middle East claims that the Shrine and Gardens are worth the visit to Haifa in itself and it’s hard to disagree.

Towering on the slopes of Mount Carmel and incorporating impeccably manicured gardens, a feast of water features and some 1400 steps, it dominates Israel’s third city.

Originally completed in 1953 the golden dome has finally been redone after some two years behind scaffolding reflecting the wealth of the Baha’i community.

The Baha’i faith is one of the youngest World religions with its origins in the leader of the faith, Ali Muhammed (1819 – 1850) in Shiraz, Iran. It is his shrine that lies in the mausoleum.

Like Mecca to the Moslims, the Baha’i (some 5 – 6 million people) are told they should visit here at least once in their lifetime.

Guided tours need to be booked well in advance for non-Baha’i, although the top two tiers can be visited during daylight hours.

Loco Lobo

2011-05-12T21:31:00.004+01:00

Ketchup with Aubs – the predecessor to ALITD mentioned my frequent loathing of Israeli travellists in India. However, i have learnt never to tar individual Israelis (or indeed individuals) with the same brush.

Mad Wolf (Loco Lobo in Spanish) is a sixty one year old Israeli. He is a fellow dromomaniac, recently retired, who spends some seven months each year continent hoping who i first meet in Lake Bunyonyi and subsequently again in Kampala.

He is clearly very Israeli – loud, argumentative, opinionated and insulting to locals. Nonetheless he is also hilariously funny, intelligent and very quotable.

Zev (Wolf in Hebrew) sings the praises of www.badoo.com . A “dating” site that often provides him with free accommodation in towns he is passing through. He uses it throughout Africa and Asia too. I ask him if he is not worried about diseases. “That is what condoms were invented for” he declares pulling out a large fistful of rubbers from his back-pocket.

He invites me to stay at his cool home in the Arab section in Haifa.I will report back shortly.

Ra'anana

2011-05-11T21:45:00.001+01:00

Lying to the north of Tel Aviv, this is where David and Tsvia have been based since arriving in Israel in 1975 when the population was about 25,000. Since then the local population has more than tripled.

It’s clearly a very cultural place.

The park is open early and closes at 2am. It boasts a huge play-centre for kids including a cork-board ground for health and safety. There is also an animal petting area, tennis and basketball courts, a bar and snack area and a large boating pool with swans and even a speaker system that plays “Swan Lake”. Classic! The replica of the Sydney Opera House tops it off nicely.

With its own concert auditorium, the Ra’anana Symphonette Orchestra under the young but highly accomplished musical director – Omer M. Wellber, performs on the last Sunday of every month. The standard is very high and the programmes varied. I get an opportunity to witness first hand Mozart’s divertimento in D major and flute and harp concerto, Mendelssohn’s symphony No. 4 in A Major and the surprisingly quality Copland’s clarinet concerto.

There are plenty of coffee-shops and restaurants. My personal fave is the Falafel Shop for cheap quality Middle Eastern snacks.

Independence Day (Part Two)

2011-05-10T22:20:00.007+01:00

stilt walkers entertain the crowd for Independence Day

Following the Remembrance for Fallen Soldiers in Israel – approximately 22,000 of them, it’s time to party for Israel’s Independence Day. Streets are decked out with Star of David flags and fairy lights.

street stalls

Festivities begin the night before, not least in Herzliyya where the main thoroughfare, Ben Gurion Boulevard. Police have cordoned it off, food stalls have been set up and stages set. Fireworks kick off at 9pm followed by dance, DJ and band performances. The streets are packed and pushchairs stack up.

a rather poor firework show kick off the celebrations

dance troupe

thrash metal band

religious choir

Independence Day (Part One)

2011-05-10T22:06:00.003+01:00

The State of Israel came into being on May 14^th 1948 – or in the Jewish calendar 5^th Iyar 5708. It is celebrated each year in Israel based on the Jewish colander and is known as Yom Ha’atzmaut which this year falls on May 9^th.

To celebrate ALITD has nominated for a photo special supplied by Elizabeth who i set on a mission to capture images of the ultra-orthodox around Jerusalem. All vehement Zionists i'm sure.

Thanks Elizabeth.

Check out those wild curls - known as peyot

Trekking in Upper Galilee

2011-05-09T21:53:00.018+01:00

Upper Galilee field in spring

My cousin Daniella, her husband Dani and their three children, Sheked, Decal and Doliv invite me on a hike around Upper Galilee.

Druze women picnic in Upper Galilee

Expecting a family hike i come completely ill-prepared with no water and flip-flops. What a mistake! The day turns out to be closer to an army assault course, but provides an excellent opportunity to explore the very beautiful region of northern Israel.

We travel up from Ra’anana along the new Route 6, a road that when completed will run the entire north/south of the country. Dani tells me that building this thoroughfare has taken a long time. Not only are there environmental issues to overcome, but religious issues too. Every grave discovered during its construction has to be assessed to determine its history by religious Jews – in orthodox Jewry a body is not allowed to be disturbed. This has delayed the completed construction by over a decade!

The further north we go so the landscape changes into more hilly and green outcrops until we eventually arrive into Upper Galilee some 35 kms south of the Lebanese border.

We meet several other families and our guide and in true Israeli style, it’s time to picnic before anything else. Daniella is clearly her mother’s daughter and has laid on a fine array of breakfast dishes.

laying out the picnic table

a guide is very much needed to hike the foothills of Upper Galilee

The trail starts what seems appropriately at an ammunition storage unit and involves a short stroll down to an Arab farm. The numerous kids are given an opportunity to milk sheep and goats as well as ride an Arabian horse.

an ammunition stash is useful near the Lebanese border

Sheked and Dani on horse-back

coffee and tea on sale in a field

We then follow a path around to a long dark and somewhat wet drainage tunnel. It’s not a very pleasant experience, especially with my two metres long legs.

Tunnel 356

Then we head on upwards through pretty spring meadows where there is a wait as we wait for the rest of the party to catch up.

Decal shows the way

The trail heads steeply downwards past a hermit’s cave before we have to engage another, fortunately much shorter drainage tunnel, though even wetter than the first.

no idea what these rodents are called - any ideas?

purple thistles

The day ends at a nearby Druze village at one of their unlabelled restaurants for a great feast to recharge the batteries. I have been keen to check out a Druze community since arriving in Israel for their global population is small and are only found in Lebanon, Syria and Israel in any sizeable numbers. Although living in their own Druze villages, this religious group are more assimilated into Israel than other Arabs and are allowed to serve in the Israeli Defense Force.

part of a Druze feast

Palestinian Refugee Camps in Palestine

2011-05-08T21:42:00.012+01:00

Your nose tells you that you are entering a refugee camp. The stench hits you almost immediately, Kids run around the streets playing with old bicycle wheels and toy guns whilst men sit around watching on or chatting on the sidewalks.

playing with street kids in Brit Jibrin

it's all a bit smelly in Aida

My last day in Bethlehem is a visit to its two refugee camps – Aida and Brit Jibrin (Al-Azza). Both these camps have their origins on the inception of the Israeli state in 1948. It seems somewhat perverse that more than fifty years on why are there Palestinian refugee camps in Palestine? One has to wonder if this is just one big propaganda exercise. Money is clearly pouring in to the community through NGOs and at least Aida has had high profile visits most recently from Pope Benedict XVI in May 2009. Schools have been built, art projects sponsored and local initiatives paid for yet both these areas remain shoddy. Does the locally run Palestinian council want to touch these areas? Did Arafat cypher the money for his burgeoning Swiss bank accounts?

take the escalator up - Aida

local graffiti in Brit Jibrin

a school in Brit Jibrin sits empty

There is some local resentment to both the area and its inhabitants. One taxi driver tells Elizabeth that most crimes in the area, including the 2002 hostage siege at the Church of the Nativity. They also are exempt from taxes despite given basic accommodation and amenities.

wall propaganda? - Aida

As of 2006 there were some 3260 refugees in Aida, and although i can’t find any statistics on Brit Jibrin, the site is much smaller in area.

Bethlehem

2011-05-07T21:41:00.021+01:00

part of the New City of Bethlehem

I invite members of my Israeli family to join me in Bethlehem, including Dan the Man who is a true adventurer, however the response is the same – it is far too dangerous for them as Israelis to visit. Uncle D. says it’s just not fair; Palestinians come to visit his home town of Ra’anana without fear of threat or violence, but this is not a reciprocal arrangement.

Buses run regularly from Jerusalem #21, #24# and #124 outside Damascus Gate; #21 avoids entry via the Security Wall, although for me this is part of the “experience”. The fare is between NIS5 – NIS7 depending on which bus you catch and takes about 40 minutes.

The town is interesting, most especially the Old City and the souq, although it is clearly not as affluent as towns across the Security Wall. The people are open and friendly, and all are happy to help you navigate around the myriad alleys around the old town.

around the Old Town

At its centre is Manger Square, filled with cafes, restaurants and a dozen or so souvenir shops. There is also the Peace centre with exhibition space, a bookshop, tourist information and toilets.

from an exhibition at the Peace Centre on World Nativities - this one from Hong Kong

It’s a very pleasant place to hang out and watch the world go by.

Pashmina shawls in different colours

Christmas shopping 365 days a year

Unsurprisingly the town is popular with Christian pilgrims, many of which are highly emotional from the experience.

Just off Manger Square is the venerable Church of the Nativity was originally commissioned by the Emperor Constantine in 326AD, although after several sackings, lootings and invasions, only the original mosaics are left. The church also encompasses the underground Grotto of the Nativity which marks the spot of Jesus’ birthplace and Chapel of the Manger with its year round nativity scene.

heading from Manger Square to the Church of the Nativity

original mosaic flooring

silent prayer and tears

expect a huge queue outside the Grotto of the Nativity

it all gets a bit emotional in the Nativity Grotto

The pinkish building next door is St Catherine’s church, a Roman Catholic place of worship from where Midnight Mass is broadcast world-wide every Christmas Eve.

St Catherine's interior

two beautiful stained glass windows in St Catherine's

Up the aptly named Milk Grotto Street is the Milk Grotto Chapel which hosts a shrine commemorating the lactation of the Virgin Mary. Apparently it is particularly popular with “barren” women from all religions.

pilgrims congregate outside the Milk Grotto Chapel

Lactating Mary

relief inside the Milk Grotto

Up Milk Grotto Street

There are many hole in the wall eateries scattered around the town and most especially in the Old City. I base myself at the Bethlehem Star hotel which charge me US$50 including breakfast in the rooftop restaurant which has excellent vistas.

It's a great place to visit and is one of the highlights of my Israeli trip.